Chiapas, Mexico: April 13 - Return to San Cristóbal

We return to San Cristóbal by bus on Friday morning. And Room 25 at the Hotel Rincón awaits us. We think it is the best room in the place: spacious, in the old section on the second floor with a view of the Templo de Guadelupe and the only one with a tiny balcony. Private and quiet.

Room 25

Common room at Hotel Rincon del Arco

Fountain Courtyard in Hotel Rincon

It still puzzles us that this hotel has been omitted from the guidebooks we consulted before we left: Lonely Planet, Moon, Fodor’s and even Frommer’s (the guidebook that originally recommended it in its 1995 edition).

Maybe because the hotel has been expanded and often houses tour groups; possibly because it is located a little further away from the action than most hotels. But neither should stop independent travelers from staying here. Even when tour groups descend, we never felt overwhelmed by them. The personal attention remains consistently high. And its distance from the main square – along with their spacious garden - insures an air of tranquility than more centrally located hotels lack.

Upon our return, the maid at Hotel Rincón has surprised us again. She has created a pair of swans from two large towels and placed it the bed. A flower made from toilet paper accompanies it.

Towel swan creation

The rest of the day we fill by shopping and wandering the town. We have lunch a superb little spot - Anabanana on the pedestrian street of Av. Miguel Hidalgo. Great organic and vegetarian fare in a cozy (only 5 tables) little spot. (If you go, check out the poster -"La Gorda" - hanging in the bathroom.)

We also stop in to the bookstore/craft shop "La Pared", also located on Av. Miguel Hidalgo - near Anabanana. (It moved from its location closer to the zocalo - as indicated in several guidebooks.) The owner, Debra, has lived in San Cristóbal for many years - since the 1980's. She first began working at Na Bolom. Now, she teaches teachers in San Cristóbal schools and runs La Pared.

We tell her we were here many years ago and have been amazed by the changes. She says that many people say that the town has been "gringoized" with pedestrian walking streets, tourist-oriented craft shops and more upscale restaurants. But according to her, the gringos are not responsible for the changes; the Mexicans have pushed for these changes. Chiapas has been heavily promoted in Mexico as a Mexican tourist destination.

We finish up our shopping and rush back to the hotel just as it begins to pour. We wait out the rains before heading out for dinner. And where will we go? Back to two of our favorite spots: El Punto restaurant for a pizza and salad, and top off the evening with a cup on homemade gelato (two scoops, naturally) from Via Vai on Av. 20 de Noviembre (near the cathedral). We couldn't have had a better end to our stay.

Recommended Restaurants

San Cristóbal del las Casas

Anabanana (Av. Miguel Hidalgo between Calles Ninos Héroes and Hermanos Domínguez) - Wonderful lunch spot.
Pizzeria El Punto (Calle Comitán 13-A - across from Plaza El Cerillo) - Delicious pizzas and inventive salads.
TierrAdentro (Calle Real de Gaudalupe 24)
Madre Tierra (An Insurgentes 19)
Eliliano's Moustache (Av. Cresencio Rosas 7)
L'Arrabbiata (84 Real de Guadalupe - one block east from where the walking portion ends.) - Great homemade pasta.
Restaurante Italiano - housed in the Hotel Posada Tepeyac on Calle de Gaudalupe No. 40 - Terrific breakfast.
Via Vai on Av. 20 de Noviembre (near the cathedral) - Gelato and other yummies.

Recommended Reading For Travel to Chiapas

"Moon Chiapas Handbook" - The most region-specific guidebook available. Unfortunately, the last edition was published in 2009. Consequently, many city maps are unreliable; many restuarants and businesses listed had either moved or closed. But it contains great cultural information.
"Lonely Planet's Tabasco & Chiapas Chapters" - Available for download from the Lonely Planet website. No need to get the entire Lonely Planet Mexico Guide. Again, good but dated (2009) information.
"Cadogan's Yucatan & Southern Mexico" by Nick Rider. No longer published. The edition I have is from 1999. Obviously, not reliable for specifics of hotels, restaurants and general prices but one of the best written guides to the area.
"An Archaeological Guide to Central & Southern Mexico" by Joyce Kelly. Though the latest edition was published in 2001, it offers detailed information on the major sites and archaeological museums.
"The Lawless Roads" by Graham Greene. Originally published in 1939. Chronicles his travels through Mexico but with a large and final section on the State of Chiapas. Heavy on Catholocism. And some ingrained British prejudices. But you can forgive him these excesses because the writing is marvelous. Served as the basis for his novel, "The Power and the Glory".
"More Maya Missions" by Richard D. Perry. Narrow in scope but offers an abundance of information (and charming black and white illustrations) on the churches in San Cristobal de las Casas and its surroundings.
"Fodor's Mexico 2010" - Not the Fodor's guides of 20 years ago. Better. Their chapter on Tabasco and Chiapas is concise and more up-to-date than the other guides. Yes, it is aimed at higher-end travelers but the guides have broadened in their focus. They are even useful to middle-range and budget travelers. Really.
"Colonial Mexico" by Chicki and Oz Mallan. Short chapter on San Cristobal de las Casas. Great book to own - again, even though published in 2001 - especially if you plan on visiting other Mexican colonial cities.